Showing posts with label how. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how. Show all posts

Sunday, May 19, 2013

How to Test a Electric Motor

Electrical motor is the fashionable utilized in business in each single place the arena.It essential tool to made manufacturing smoothly.To be sure that the electricalal motor situation is just right or now not,we should understand tips on how to trying out it.
The electrician or maintenance particular person should have this skill to decide the electrical motor situation,defected or can not use anymore.It can save the repair value and upkeep expenditure.

  •     Check the appearance of motor.find any defect at body,cooling fan or shaft.
  •     Try to swing manually the rotor shaft test the bearing condition.Check both it smooth rotating or now not.
  •     Collect the motor data from motor NAME PLATE.It crucial to know about specs of motor prior to we trying out.
  •     Ensure the terminal for power supply in good condition.Check the connection bar for terminal ( U,V,W ).What more or less connection for terminal.( STAR OR DELTA ).
  •     Please ascertain first the facility supply VOLTAGE for electric motor.It single phase or three section sort.
  •     Using the multimeter,check the continuity of winding from segment to phase ( U to V,V to W ,W to U ).Each section to segment should have a continuity if winding is OK.
  •     Check the motor winding ohms studying the use of multimeter or ohmmeter for phase to phase terminal ( U to V,V to W ,W to U ).Reading for each and every phase should related inside one or two ohms deference.If no studying,maybe winding was once defect.
  •     Check the insulation resistance of motor winding using Insulation checker meter on 500 Volt scale.First check from segment to segment  ( U to V,V to W ,W to U ) and 2d check from segment to earthing ( U to E,V to E ,W to E ).According to straightforward IEEE 43: IR check minimum value of the electrical motor is a 1 Mega Ohm ( 1 MΩ ) . It imply winding is in excellent condition.Refer my ultimate publish find out how to check motor the use of insulation take a seem ater meter.
  •     After all step we perform and the testing result's OK,now we check in actual situation.Why we take a appear at it with energy supply?It is to be certain that no mechanical defect like bearing downside or unbalance rotor movement.
  •     When motor is working,we should examine the AMPERE of motor using Clamp on meter.Refer to FLA at name plate of  motor.
  •     If each step is completed,now we are able to come to a decision the situation of electrical motor either OK or NEED TO REPAIR.
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Monday, April 8, 2013

How to make a Simple Infra Red Remote Control Circuit


Controlling household electrical gadgets or any electrical equipment remotely can be fun.  Controlling gadgets like a TV set or a DVD player through a remote may look pretty common to us and we are very used to with the experience, however for controlling many other domestic equipment like a water pump, lights etc we are compelled to walk around for implementing the switching.


The article is inspired by our usual TV remote concept and has been applied for controlling other house hold electrical appliances remotely.  The circuit facilitates and helps the user to do the operations without moving an inch from his resting place.

The whole circuit of the proposed IR remote control may be understood by studying the following points:

Referring to the figure, we see that the entire layout consists of just a couple of stages viz: the IR sensor stage and the fkip flop stage.

Thanks to the highly versatile, miniature IR sensor unit which forms the heart of the circuit and directly coverts the received IR waves from the tranamitter unit into the relevant logic pulses for feeding the fllip flop stage.

The sensor basically consists of just three leads viz: the input, the output and the biasing voltage input lead. The involvmant of only three leads makes the unit very easy to configure into a practical circuit.

The sensor is specified for operating at 5 volts regulated voltage which makes the inclusion of the 7805 IC stage important. The 5 voltage supply also becomes useful for the flip flop IC 4017 and is appropriately supplied to the relevant stage.

When a IR signal becomes incident over the sensor lens, the inbuilt feature of the unit activates, triggering a sudden drop in its output voltage.

The PNP transistor T1 responds to the negative trigger pulse from the sensor and quickly pulls the positive potential at its emitter to the collector across the resistor R2.

The potential developed across R2 provides a positive logic high to the IC 4017 input pin #14. The IC instantly flips its output and changes it’s polarity. 

The transistor T2 accepts the command and switches the relay according to the relevant input provided to its base.

The relay thus switches the connected load across its contacts alternately in response to the subsequent triggers received from the IR transmitter unit.

For the sake of convenience the user may use the existing TV remote control set unit as the transmitter for operating the above explained control circuit.

The referred sensor is well compatible with all normal TV or DVD remote control handset and thus can be appropriately switched through it.

The entire circuit is powered from an ordinary transformer/bridge network and the entire circuit may be housed inside a small plastic box with the relevant wires coming out of the box for the desired connections. 

Parts List  

The following parts will be required for making the above explained infra red remote control circuit:

R1, R3 = 100 ohms,
R2 = 100K,
R4 = 4K7,
R5 = 10K,
C1, C2, C4= 22uF/25V,
C6 = 4.7uF/25V,
C3 = 0.1, CERAMIC,
C5 = 1000uF/25V,
T1 = BC557B
T2 = BC547B,
ALL DIODES ARE = 1N4007,
IR SENSOR = TSOP1738 image: Vishay
 IC1 = 4017,
IC2 = 7805,
TRANSFORMER = 0-12V/500mA,

Prototype image courtesy: Raj Mukherji



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How does a Flight Landing


How does a Flight Landing
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Friday, March 29, 2013

How to Make an Efficient LED Emergency Light Circuit


The article describes a very simple homemade emergency light circuit that can be used during power failures and outdoors where any other source of power might be unavailable. The circuit uses LEDs instead of incandescent lamp, thus making the unit very power efficient and brighter with its light output. Moreover, the circuit employs a very innovative concept especially devised by me which further enhances the economical feature of the unit.

More innovative circuits HERE.

Let’s learn the concept and the circuit more closely:

The concept:

We know that LEDs require a certain fixed forward voltage drop to become illuminated and it is at this rating when the LED is at it’s best, that is voltages which is around its forward voltage drop facilitates the device to operate in the most efficient way. 

As this voltage is increased, the LED starts drawing more current, rather dissipating extra current by getting heated up itself and also through the resistor which also gets heated up in the process of limiting the extra current.

If we could maintain a voltage around an LED near to its rated forward voltage, we could use it more efficiently. That’s exactly what I have tried to fix in the circuit.

Since the battery used here is a 6 volt battery, means this source is a bit higher than the forward voltage of the LEDs used here, which amounts to 3.5 volts. The extra 2.5 volts rise can cause considerable dissipation and loss of power through heat generation.

Therefore I employed a few diodes in series with the supply and made sure that initially when the battery is fully charged; three diodes are effectively switched so as to drop the excess 2.5 volts across the white LEDs (because each diode drop 0.6 volts across itself).

 Now as the voltage of the battery drops, the diodes series are reduced to two and subsequently to one making sure only the desired amount of voltage reaches the LED bank.

In this way the proposed emergency lamp circuit is made highly efficient with its current consumption, and it provides backup for a much longer period of time than what it would do with ordinary connections.




Efficient, Automatic, White LED Emergency Light Circuit Description:


Referring the figure, we see that the circuit is actually very easy to understand, let’s evaluate it with the following points:

The transformer, bridge and the capacitor forms a standard Power supply for the circuit. The circuit is basically made up of a single PNP transistor, which is used as a switch here.

We know that PNP devices are referenced to positive potentials and it acts like ground to them. So connecting a positive supply to the base of a PNP device would mean grounding of its base. Here, as long as mains power is ON, the positive from the supply reaches the base of the transistor, keeping it switched off. Therefore the voltage from the battery is not able to reach the LED bank, keeping it switched off.
In the meantime the battery is charged by the power supply voltage and it’s charged through the system of trickle charging.

However, as soon as the mains power disrupts, the positive at the base of the transistor disappears and it gets forward biased through the 10K resistor.

The transistor switches ON, instantly illuminating the LEDs.

Initially all the diodes are included in the voltage path, and are gradually bypassed one by one as the LED gets dimmer.

HAVE ANY DOUBTS? FEEL FREE TO COMMENT AND INTERACT.

Parts List

R1 = 10K,
C1 = 100uF/25V,
D1, D2 = 1N4007,
D3---D6 = 1N5408,
T1 = BD140
Tr1 = 0-9V, 500mA,
LEDs = white, hi-efficiency, 5mm,
S1 = switch with three changeover contacts.


In response to the suggestion of one of  our avid readers, the above circuit has bee modified and improved with a second transistor stage incorporating an LDR trigger system. The stage renders the emergency light action ineffective during day time when ample ambient light is available, thus saving precious battery power by avoiding unnecessary switching of the unit.




Circuit modifications for operating 150 LEDs, requested by SATY:



Parts List

R1 = 220 Ohms, 1/2 watt
R2 = 100Ohms, 2 watts,
RL = All 22 Ohms, 1/4 watt,
C1 = 100uF/25V,
D1,2,3,4,6,7,8 = 1N5408,
D5 = 1N4007
T1 = AD149 or similar,
Transformer = 0-6V, 500mA

Power Supply Circuit with Emergency Backup

The circuit shown below was requested by one of the readers, it is a power supply circuit which trickle charges a battery when AC mains is available, and also feeds the output with the required DC power via D1.  Now, the moment AC mains fails, the battery instantly backs up and the compensates the output failure with its power via D2.


When input Mains is present, the rectified DC passes through R1 and charges the battery with the desired output current,  also, D1 transfers the transformer DC to the output for keeping the load switched on simultaneously.

D2 remains reverse biased and is not able to conduct because of higher positive potential produced at the cathode of D1.

However when mains AC fails, the cathode potential of D1 becomes lower and therefore D2 starts conducting and provides the battery DC back up instantly to the load without any interruptions.


Parts List

All Diodes = 1N5402 for battery up to 20 AH, 1N4007, two in parallel for 10-20 AH battery, and 1N4007 for below 10 AH.

R1 = volt/charging current (Ohms)

Transformer Current/Charging current = 1/10 * batt AH

C1 = 100uF/25


Using NPN transistors


The first circuit can be also built using NPN transistors, as shown here:


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Saturday, March 23, 2013

How to Make a 220V to 110V Converter Circuit

Primarily there are two AC mains voltage levels that are specified by countries across the globe. These are 110V and 220V. The USA works with a 110V AC mains domestic line while European countries and many Asian countries supply a 220V AC to their cities. Folks procuring imported gadgets from a foreign region having a different mains voltage specs find it difficult to operate the equipment with their AC outlets because of the huge difference in the required input levels.

Though there are 220V to 110V converters available for solving the above issue, these are big, cumbersome and immensely costly.

The present article explains s few interesting concepts which can be possibly implemented for making compact, transformerless 220V to 110V converter circuits.

The proposed homemade converters can be customized and dimensioned as per the gadget size so that these may be inserted and accommodated right inside the particular gadget. This feature helps to get rid of the big and bulky converters and helps to keep away from the unnecessary mess.

CAUTION: ALL THE CIRCUITS DISCUSSED HERE HAVE POTENTIALS OF CAUSING SEVERE LIFE AND FIRE HAZARDS, EXTREME CAUTION IS ADVISED WHILE GETTING INVOLVED WITH THESE CIRCUITS.

All these circuit diagram have been developed by me, lets learn how they can be constructed at home and how the circuit functions:

Using Only Diodes

The first circuit will convert a 220V AC input to any desired output level from 100V to 220V, however the output will be a DC, so this circuit may be used for operating a foreign equipment which might be employing an AC/DC SMPS input power supply stage. The converter will not work with equipment incorporating a transformer at its input.


As we all know that a normal diode, like a 1N4007 drops 0.6 to 0.7 volts across it, when a DC is applied, means that many diodes put in series would drop the relevant amount of voltage across them.
In the the proposed design, in all 190 1N4007 diodes have been used and put in series for acquiring the desired level of voltage conversion.
If we multiply 190 by 0.6, it gives around 114, so thats pretty close to the required mark of 110V.

However since these diodes require an input DC, four more diodes are wired up as a bridge network for the initially required 220V DC to the circuit.
The maximum current that can be drawn from this converter is not more than 300 mA, or around 30 watts.

Using a Triac/Diac Circuit

The next option presented here has not been tested by me, but looks good to me, however many will find the concept dangerous and very undesirable.
I designed the following converter circuit only after doing a thorough research regarding the involved issues and have confirmed it to be safe, but its my personal point of view, if you find it undesirable better do not try this.

The circuit is based on the regular light dimmer switch circuit principle, where the input phase is chopped at the particular voltage marks of the rising AC sine wave. Thus the circuit can be used for setting the input voltage at the required 100 V level.
One big issue involved with this circuit is back EMF that might be generated  from the transformer of the gadget, this might instantly fry the triac or the diac. Although sufficiently advanced and high power components have been included in the design, an effective snubber circuit stage was felt imperative and therefore the RC network across the triac has been stationed.

The pot shown in the circuit should be adjusted for obtaining the required 110V at the output terminals.
A 500 watt iron element coil resistance may be introduced in series with the load for extra safety.

Alternatively a simpler version of the circuit can be made, where the main high triac is operated via a cheap light dimmer switch for the intended results.

Using an Autotransformer Cocept

The last circuit in the order is perhaps the safest from the above because it uses the conventional concept of transfering power through magnetic induction, or in other words here we employ the age old autotransformer concept for making the desired 110V converter.
However here we have the freedom of designing the core of the transformer such that it can be stufed inside the particular gadget enclosure which needs to be operated from this converter. There will be always some space in gadgets like an amplifier or other simlar systems, which allows us to measure the free spave inside the gadget and  customize the core design.

I have shown the use of ordinary steel plates here as the core material which are stacked together and bolted across two of the sets.
The bolting of the two sets of lamination provides some sort of looping effect, generally required for efficient magnetic induction across the core. The winding a single long winding from start to end, as shown in the figure. The center tap from the winding will provide the required approximate 110 V AC output.


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Tuesday, March 19, 2013

how to repair Nokia N73 totaly death

Here is tips how to repair Nokia N73 totaly death :
1. Check power on switch first, replace button if needed.
2. If power on button is ok please check batteray connector, replace batteray connector if needed.
3. Try upgrade software then (reflash firmware).
4. If batteray connector is Ok measure resistance at batteray connector, if too low (short).
5. Check Voltage at C2203 & C2204 (about 3,7-4 Volt)
6. If needed replace C2203 & C 2204 (Capasitor)




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