Showing posts with label make. Show all posts
Showing posts with label make. Show all posts

Monday, April 8, 2013

How to make a Simple Infra Red Remote Control Circuit


Controlling household electrical gadgets or any electrical equipment remotely can be fun.  Controlling gadgets like a TV set or a DVD player through a remote may look pretty common to us and we are very used to with the experience, however for controlling many other domestic equipment like a water pump, lights etc we are compelled to walk around for implementing the switching.


The article is inspired by our usual TV remote concept and has been applied for controlling other house hold electrical appliances remotely.  The circuit facilitates and helps the user to do the operations without moving an inch from his resting place.

The whole circuit of the proposed IR remote control may be understood by studying the following points:

Referring to the figure, we see that the entire layout consists of just a couple of stages viz: the IR sensor stage and the fkip flop stage.

Thanks to the highly versatile, miniature IR sensor unit which forms the heart of the circuit and directly coverts the received IR waves from the tranamitter unit into the relevant logic pulses for feeding the fllip flop stage.

The sensor basically consists of just three leads viz: the input, the output and the biasing voltage input lead. The involvmant of only three leads makes the unit very easy to configure into a practical circuit.

The sensor is specified for operating at 5 volts regulated voltage which makes the inclusion of the 7805 IC stage important. The 5 voltage supply also becomes useful for the flip flop IC 4017 and is appropriately supplied to the relevant stage.

When a IR signal becomes incident over the sensor lens, the inbuilt feature of the unit activates, triggering a sudden drop in its output voltage.

The PNP transistor T1 responds to the negative trigger pulse from the sensor and quickly pulls the positive potential at its emitter to the collector across the resistor R2.

The potential developed across R2 provides a positive logic high to the IC 4017 input pin #14. The IC instantly flips its output and changes it’s polarity. 

The transistor T2 accepts the command and switches the relay according to the relevant input provided to its base.

The relay thus switches the connected load across its contacts alternately in response to the subsequent triggers received from the IR transmitter unit.

For the sake of convenience the user may use the existing TV remote control set unit as the transmitter for operating the above explained control circuit.

The referred sensor is well compatible with all normal TV or DVD remote control handset and thus can be appropriately switched through it.

The entire circuit is powered from an ordinary transformer/bridge network and the entire circuit may be housed inside a small plastic box with the relevant wires coming out of the box for the desired connections. 

Parts List  

The following parts will be required for making the above explained infra red remote control circuit:

R1, R3 = 100 ohms,
R2 = 100K,
R4 = 4K7,
R5 = 10K,
C1, C2, C4= 22uF/25V,
C6 = 4.7uF/25V,
C3 = 0.1, CERAMIC,
C5 = 1000uF/25V,
T1 = BC557B
T2 = BC547B,
ALL DIODES ARE = 1N4007,
IR SENSOR = TSOP1738 image: Vishay
 IC1 = 4017,
IC2 = 7805,
TRANSFORMER = 0-12V/500mA,

Prototype image courtesy: Raj Mukherji



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Thursday, April 4, 2013

Auto Sound Systems are an Investment in your Car Make it Great

For those who love tunes and the ability to take them along wherever you may roam, there are some great auto sound systems that allow you to basically plug in your favorite tunes to play as you go. It doesnt really matter which style of MP3 player you use, most of the newer auto sound systems at least have the ability to read and translate the material from these players into great music for you to enjoy on your ride by simply plugging your MP3 player into the car stereo.

Many of us find that lugging around an MP3 player with all of our favorite tunes (or at least most of them-with up to 40 gigs of hard drive space it might take a while to fill completely) is much easier and more practical than attempting to lug around a huge case of CDs. It is also great for those of us who find ourselves disappointed when we purchase CDs only to find that we really only like one or two songs. Now we can simply download the songs we know and love while avoiding those we are uncertain about or at least waiting until more songs come out before deciding whether or not to purchase the entire collection of songs. Having an auto sound system that allows you to enjoy the convenience of simply plugging in either your MP3 player or a memory card or stick in order to have your favorite songs at your finger tips at all times is fantastic.

I dont know about you, but I am absolutely hooked on audio books. I love to read and find so little free time in which to get my feel of the latest and greatest best seller. Audio books allow me to hear the stories Ive been eagerly awaiting at my convenience and in my SUV as Im making my daily commute or running errands. These books are also a great way to enjoy long car trips. You can even check your local library in order to find an excellent selection.

I typically try to find stories that might interest the children on long car rides as well (such as the Harry Potter books or The Polar Express). This instills a love of reading in them and I dont have to worry about the stray grown up word that some audio books contain. Good auto sound systems not only play great music but also sound wonderful when it comes to the spoken word as well. This is not only true when it comes to books on tape, CD, or MP3 but also talk radio and national news stations as well.
When you begin your search for your next auto sound system make sure you consider all the possible features you may wish to include. You can find sound systems today that include GPS, DVD players, navigational tools, CD players, MP3 players, satellite radio receivers and countless other nifty features. Choose the auto sound system that will suit your needs and interests best and enjoy it for as long as you can. A good sound system is something that will stay with your car, truck, or SUV so it is best to make that particular investment long before you plan to trade your vehicle in on another. At the same time a good auto sound system can be an excellent incentive to hold onto your vehicle a little while longer.

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Saturday, March 30, 2013

Make this Simple Tachometer Circuit

A tachometer is a device which is used for measuring vehicle engine RPM. Thus, it is basically used for checking the performance of the engine and helps an auto mechanic to understand the condition of the engine so that it can be corrected or optimized as per the desired specs.


Generally a tachometer may be considered an expensive equipments as these are highly accurate and intended for obtaining correct RPM rates of the concerned engine under test.

The conventional units are therefore very sophisticated and generate highly accurate results while testing.

However it doesnt mean that a simpler version cannot be built at home. With electronics at its best today, making a tachometer circuit at home isnt at all difficult. Whats more the results obtained from such circuits are fairly accurate and provides the required data for assessing the overall working condition of the system.

The circuit diagram shows a simple configuration utilizing the IC 555. The IC is basically configured as a monstable multivibrator.

The pulse is derived from the spark plug and fed to the end of R6.

The transistor responds to the pulses and conduct in accordance with triggers.

The transistor activates the monostable with every rising pulse of the input.

The monostable stays ON for a particular moment each time its triggered and generates an average ON time at the output which is directly proportional to the average trigger rate.

The capacitor and the resistor at the output of the IC integrate the result so that it can be directly read over a 10V FSD voltmeter.

The pot R3 should be adjusted such that the output generates the exact interpretations of the fed RPM rates.

The above setting up must be done  with the help of a good conventional tachometer unit,



Parts List

R1 = 4K7
R2 = 47E
R3 = CAN BE VARIABLE 100K POT
R4 = 3K3,
R5 = 10K,
R6 = 1K,
R7 1K,
R8 = 10K,
R9 = 100K,
C1 = 47n,
C2 = 100n,
C3 = 100n,
C4 = 33uF/25V,
T1 = BC547
IC1 = 555,
M1 = 10V FSD meter,
D1,D2 = 1N4148

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Friday, March 29, 2013

How to Make an Efficient LED Emergency Light Circuit


The article describes a very simple homemade emergency light circuit that can be used during power failures and outdoors where any other source of power might be unavailable. The circuit uses LEDs instead of incandescent lamp, thus making the unit very power efficient and brighter with its light output. Moreover, the circuit employs a very innovative concept especially devised by me which further enhances the economical feature of the unit.

More innovative circuits HERE.

Let’s learn the concept and the circuit more closely:

The concept:

We know that LEDs require a certain fixed forward voltage drop to become illuminated and it is at this rating when the LED is at it’s best, that is voltages which is around its forward voltage drop facilitates the device to operate in the most efficient way. 

As this voltage is increased, the LED starts drawing more current, rather dissipating extra current by getting heated up itself and also through the resistor which also gets heated up in the process of limiting the extra current.

If we could maintain a voltage around an LED near to its rated forward voltage, we could use it more efficiently. That’s exactly what I have tried to fix in the circuit.

Since the battery used here is a 6 volt battery, means this source is a bit higher than the forward voltage of the LEDs used here, which amounts to 3.5 volts. The extra 2.5 volts rise can cause considerable dissipation and loss of power through heat generation.

Therefore I employed a few diodes in series with the supply and made sure that initially when the battery is fully charged; three diodes are effectively switched so as to drop the excess 2.5 volts across the white LEDs (because each diode drop 0.6 volts across itself).

 Now as the voltage of the battery drops, the diodes series are reduced to two and subsequently to one making sure only the desired amount of voltage reaches the LED bank.

In this way the proposed emergency lamp circuit is made highly efficient with its current consumption, and it provides backup for a much longer period of time than what it would do with ordinary connections.




Efficient, Automatic, White LED Emergency Light Circuit Description:


Referring the figure, we see that the circuit is actually very easy to understand, let’s evaluate it with the following points:

The transformer, bridge and the capacitor forms a standard Power supply for the circuit. The circuit is basically made up of a single PNP transistor, which is used as a switch here.

We know that PNP devices are referenced to positive potentials and it acts like ground to them. So connecting a positive supply to the base of a PNP device would mean grounding of its base. Here, as long as mains power is ON, the positive from the supply reaches the base of the transistor, keeping it switched off. Therefore the voltage from the battery is not able to reach the LED bank, keeping it switched off.
In the meantime the battery is charged by the power supply voltage and it’s charged through the system of trickle charging.

However, as soon as the mains power disrupts, the positive at the base of the transistor disappears and it gets forward biased through the 10K resistor.

The transistor switches ON, instantly illuminating the LEDs.

Initially all the diodes are included in the voltage path, and are gradually bypassed one by one as the LED gets dimmer.

HAVE ANY DOUBTS? FEEL FREE TO COMMENT AND INTERACT.

Parts List

R1 = 10K,
C1 = 100uF/25V,
D1, D2 = 1N4007,
D3---D6 = 1N5408,
T1 = BD140
Tr1 = 0-9V, 500mA,
LEDs = white, hi-efficiency, 5mm,
S1 = switch with three changeover contacts.


In response to the suggestion of one of  our avid readers, the above circuit has bee modified and improved with a second transistor stage incorporating an LDR trigger system. The stage renders the emergency light action ineffective during day time when ample ambient light is available, thus saving precious battery power by avoiding unnecessary switching of the unit.




Circuit modifications for operating 150 LEDs, requested by SATY:



Parts List

R1 = 220 Ohms, 1/2 watt
R2 = 100Ohms, 2 watts,
RL = All 22 Ohms, 1/4 watt,
C1 = 100uF/25V,
D1,2,3,4,6,7,8 = 1N5408,
D5 = 1N4007
T1 = AD149 or similar,
Transformer = 0-6V, 500mA

Power Supply Circuit with Emergency Backup

The circuit shown below was requested by one of the readers, it is a power supply circuit which trickle charges a battery when AC mains is available, and also feeds the output with the required DC power via D1.  Now, the moment AC mains fails, the battery instantly backs up and the compensates the output failure with its power via D2.


When input Mains is present, the rectified DC passes through R1 and charges the battery with the desired output current,  also, D1 transfers the transformer DC to the output for keeping the load switched on simultaneously.

D2 remains reverse biased and is not able to conduct because of higher positive potential produced at the cathode of D1.

However when mains AC fails, the cathode potential of D1 becomes lower and therefore D2 starts conducting and provides the battery DC back up instantly to the load without any interruptions.


Parts List

All Diodes = 1N5402 for battery up to 20 AH, 1N4007, two in parallel for 10-20 AH battery, and 1N4007 for below 10 AH.

R1 = volt/charging current (Ohms)

Transformer Current/Charging current = 1/10 * batt AH

C1 = 100uF/25


Using NPN transistors


The first circuit can be also built using NPN transistors, as shown here:


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Saturday, March 23, 2013

How to Make a 220V to 110V Converter Circuit

Primarily there are two AC mains voltage levels that are specified by countries across the globe. These are 110V and 220V. The USA works with a 110V AC mains domestic line while European countries and many Asian countries supply a 220V AC to their cities. Folks procuring imported gadgets from a foreign region having a different mains voltage specs find it difficult to operate the equipment with their AC outlets because of the huge difference in the required input levels.

Though there are 220V to 110V converters available for solving the above issue, these are big, cumbersome and immensely costly.

The present article explains s few interesting concepts which can be possibly implemented for making compact, transformerless 220V to 110V converter circuits.

The proposed homemade converters can be customized and dimensioned as per the gadget size so that these may be inserted and accommodated right inside the particular gadget. This feature helps to get rid of the big and bulky converters and helps to keep away from the unnecessary mess.

CAUTION: ALL THE CIRCUITS DISCUSSED HERE HAVE POTENTIALS OF CAUSING SEVERE LIFE AND FIRE HAZARDS, EXTREME CAUTION IS ADVISED WHILE GETTING INVOLVED WITH THESE CIRCUITS.

All these circuit diagram have been developed by me, lets learn how they can be constructed at home and how the circuit functions:

Using Only Diodes

The first circuit will convert a 220V AC input to any desired output level from 100V to 220V, however the output will be a DC, so this circuit may be used for operating a foreign equipment which might be employing an AC/DC SMPS input power supply stage. The converter will not work with equipment incorporating a transformer at its input.


As we all know that a normal diode, like a 1N4007 drops 0.6 to 0.7 volts across it, when a DC is applied, means that many diodes put in series would drop the relevant amount of voltage across them.
In the the proposed design, in all 190 1N4007 diodes have been used and put in series for acquiring the desired level of voltage conversion.
If we multiply 190 by 0.6, it gives around 114, so thats pretty close to the required mark of 110V.

However since these diodes require an input DC, four more diodes are wired up as a bridge network for the initially required 220V DC to the circuit.
The maximum current that can be drawn from this converter is not more than 300 mA, or around 30 watts.

Using a Triac/Diac Circuit

The next option presented here has not been tested by me, but looks good to me, however many will find the concept dangerous and very undesirable.
I designed the following converter circuit only after doing a thorough research regarding the involved issues and have confirmed it to be safe, but its my personal point of view, if you find it undesirable better do not try this.

The circuit is based on the regular light dimmer switch circuit principle, where the input phase is chopped at the particular voltage marks of the rising AC sine wave. Thus the circuit can be used for setting the input voltage at the required 100 V level.
One big issue involved with this circuit is back EMF that might be generated  from the transformer of the gadget, this might instantly fry the triac or the diac. Although sufficiently advanced and high power components have been included in the design, an effective snubber circuit stage was felt imperative and therefore the RC network across the triac has been stationed.

The pot shown in the circuit should be adjusted for obtaining the required 110V at the output terminals.
A 500 watt iron element coil resistance may be introduced in series with the load for extra safety.

Alternatively a simpler version of the circuit can be made, where the main high triac is operated via a cheap light dimmer switch for the intended results.

Using an Autotransformer Cocept

The last circuit in the order is perhaps the safest from the above because it uses the conventional concept of transfering power through magnetic induction, or in other words here we employ the age old autotransformer concept for making the desired 110V converter.
However here we have the freedom of designing the core of the transformer such that it can be stufed inside the particular gadget enclosure which needs to be operated from this converter. There will be always some space in gadgets like an amplifier or other simlar systems, which allows us to measure the free spave inside the gadget and  customize the core design.

I have shown the use of ordinary steel plates here as the core material which are stacked together and bolted across two of the sets.
The bolting of the two sets of lamination provides some sort of looping effect, generally required for efficient magnetic induction across the core. The winding a single long winding from start to end, as shown in the figure. The center tap from the winding will provide the required approximate 110 V AC output.


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